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Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend Kit for Flashforge Finder / Inventor 2 / Guider 2 / 2S / Dremel 3D40

Original price $ 37.75 - Original price $ 37.75
Original price $ 37.75
$ 37.75
$ 37.75 - $ 37.75
Current price $ 37.75
SKU M2575-04

This is an all metal hotend upgrade kit for Flashforge Finder and Flashforge Guider 2.  All metal hotend will let you print at much higher temperature than possible with original PTFE lined one. Another benefit of an all metal hotend design is more consistent melt chamber control. During slow extrusion rate, in PTFE lined hotend, transition zone from solid to molten plastic tends to creep upward creating more stringy prints. With all metal design a transition zone is always constant, being located right at the heat break. With fast extrusion rate, PTFE tube doesn't have enough thermal conductivity to properly melt all the plastic coming out.  All metal hotend solves this problem, plastic is surrounded by thermally conductive nozzle throughout its length.

Orifice size available: .2mm, .3mm, .4mm .5mm, .6mm, .8mm, 1mm, 1.2mm

Made in USA by Micro Swiss

  • FlashForge Finder 
  • FlashForge Inventor 2
  • FlashForge Guider 2 Standard Hotend *Will NOT fit HT Hotend
  • FlashForge Guider 2S Standard Hotend *Will NOT fit HT Hotend
  • Dremel 3D40 Idea Builder
    What's in the box
    • 1 Plated Brass Wear Resistant Nozzle
    • 1 Thermal Tube
    • 2 Jam Nuts (To aid in removing old hotend)

    Installation Instructions - Video

    Extra Nozzles

    Brass Plated MK10 All Metal Nozzles

    A2 Hardened tool steel MK10 All Metal nozzles

    Nozzle Size: .4mm

    Customer Reviews

    Based on 15 reviews
    Vitaly Grozdev
    Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend Kit for Flashforge Guider 2

    I replaced the standard Teflon tube extruder with a new all metal one. It is important to assemble very carefully. Exactly with the video instructions. Then calibrate the extruder and work table. Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend works perfectly even without changing the printer settings. Perhaps later I will do some experiments with different filament and different settings. Thanks to Micro Swiss and its team! I recommend! Best regards, Vitaly

    BloomX LTD
    The pdroduct deosn't fit to guide 2s

    Unfortunately you didn't provide the entire information in order to understand if the the product fit to the guider printer.

    David Stringer
    It caused my extruder to smoke.

    I have a Guider 2 and I wanted to replace the hot end with something better than what came with the printer. I followed the instructions and watched the video installation guide then put it back together. I double checked everything and cleaned out the extruder so there wouldn't be any residual filament. I tried a test print and it started working fine but then it started smelling like smoke and it had never done that before. I opened it up and everything was still fine with the connections and I preheated it with the cover off when I noticed a small stream of smoke coming from it. I don't know what else to do with it now except replace the entire extruder out of fear the chip or something was damaged by the heat. If you buy this then watch the extruder closely to make sure this doesn't happen to you.

    Michael Fogassy
    Works well with Guider 2, will work with Guider 2S (see review)

    First I'd like to point out the differences between the original Guider 2/2s, and the updated release of the 2s. Originally, FlashForge used one heatsink (the round bit with the fins) for both the HT and regular hot end. This meant that if you used the FlashForge High Temp heat break, which screws into the heatsink with a length of PTFE tube that slides into it to bridge the gap from the top of the heatsink to the heat break, there was open space around the tube. You need an EXACT cut for the tube to connect the inside of the top of the heatsink to the heat break without any gaps and without making the tube flex. Inevitably, the tube would soften or be too long or just people would screw the heat break into the heatsink too far, and bend the tube. Minor bowing wasn't usually a problem, but sometimes it could kink and jam.

    This Micro Swiss all metal hot end is designed to fit that heatsink and replace the stock heat break on the non HT hot end for the Guider 2/2s first version.

    FlashForge made a new heatsink for the Guider 2s HT version with an opening just big enough to hold the PTFE tube. Cutting the right size became easier, since you could feel when the heat break was snug against the PTFE tube inside. You'll notice that the HT heat break end that goes into the heater block is shaped like the MS all-metal hot end heat break. FlashForge also released HT nozzles that are extended length like the standard temp nozzles, but instead of having room for the PTFE tube to slide into, it is just big enough for the filament. Along with this, FladhForge also release a new heater block that clamps the heating element better and has a groove down the center for some unknown reason. One other difference I noticed about this heater block is that it appears to be shaped upside down. That is, there's a slight recess around the threading for the nozzle and the heat break, but on this one, the recess (which should be for the nozzle) is at the top by the heat break inside of on the bottom for the nozzle. If you flip it over with the recess on the bottom, the thermistor screws into the opposite side (obviously) if you line it up properly to fit the air shroud. This means routing the thermistor wire up from the left side, between the servo sensor and the heatsink, to plug into the board. If you install the heating element properly, then those wires also have to follow the same path. Maybe I'm missing something here but I find it annoying.

    You can find both heater blocks and both heatsinks at partsbuilt. They also carry the micro swiss hot end at the same price, as well as the nozzles, and just about every other part.

    The new HT hot end for the Guider 2s HT can handle 300c even though it still has a (shorter) PTFE tube inside, because it ends in the heat break and not the nozzle. This eliminates some of the need for the micro swiss all metal hot end, but not all of it. Some materials work best in an all-metal hot end though. You do need to adjust your temperatures with an all metal hot end, and most people end up printing too hot, causing jamming. Another common mistake is using too large of a retraction setting. Using FlashPrint, most materials I use either a 0.1mm or 0.3mm retraction length at about 45mm/s. The melt zone is a little larger with an all metal hot end and is a more drastic transition to the cold end.

    I have multiple full hot end assemblies for multiple needs. I found a plated copper nozzle that I like that works with the all metal heat break from micro swiss.

    One thing most people don't do also is adjust the nozzle properly. You want to screw it in almost entirely. Screw it in entirely and then back it out about a quarter turn. Screw the heat break into the heater block until you feel it touch the nozzle. You'll want probably plyers and a nozzle socket for this next part. Preheat your hot end to the default 220. Once heated, screw the nozzle in snug against the heat break. This ensures no gap and avoids jamming that usually occurs when there's a slight gap there, since there's no PTFE tube going all the way to the nozzle.

    I hope this review helps some people understand the changes.


    Works great and has revolutionized my PETG printing.