Micro Swiss Direct Drive Extruder for Creality CR-10 / Ender 3 Printers

$ 99.75
SKU Part Number: M2601
Hotend Option

Micro Swiss Direct Drive Extruder is a drop in system for CR10 / Ender Printers

  • No modification required, simple plug and play
  • No printed brackets or sandwiches


  • Dual-drive train
  • Hardened tool steel, CNC precision cut gears
  • Adjustable filament grip
  • Easy filament loading
  • Short, highly constrained filament path
  • Prints flexible filaments with high speed and accuracy
  • Outstanding extrusion control
  • Lightweight aluminum body

  • CR-10 (Will NOT directly fit CR10 V2, V3)
  • CR-10-S5
  • CR-10-S4
  • CR-10S
  • CR-10 MINI
  • CR-20
  • CR-20 Pro
  • Ender 2
  • Ender 3
  • Ender 3 Pro


We notice a recent extruder stepper motor update on Creality machines. Before ordering this kit, please check your extruder stepper motor. If your extruder motor gear is pressed in, you will need to purchase a new stepper motor to be able to complete the installation.


What's in the box
  • Stepper motor and roller wheels are NOT included
  • 1 x Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend (If option selected)
  • 1 x Main Extruder body
  • 1 x Extruder Lever
  • 1 x Spring Pin
  • 1 x Spring
  • 2 x Gears
  • 1 x Knob
  • 1 x Shoulder Pin
  • 2 x M5 20mm Nylon Patch Bolts
  • 1 x M5 30 Bolts
  • 1 x M5 Nylon Lock Nut
  • 1 x M5 Washer
  • 1 x Extension Cable
  • 3 x M3 Motor Mounting Screws
  • 2 x M3 Bolts
  • 2 x M3 Nuts
  • 5 x Zip Ties
  • 1 x Printed Bracket
  • 1 x Beveled Capricorn Liner


Installation Instructions - PDF

Installation Instructions By Daniel at ModBot - Video

Installation Instructions by My Tech Fun for Ender 3 V2 - Video


After the installation, X and Y origins will be off the bed.

Adjustments procedure will depend on a type of the firmware and the setup you are currently using.

Chose the setup you have:

Without any bed leveling probe installed

Leveling probe installed with generic or Creality Marlin Firmware

Leveling probe installed with TH3D Unified Firmware

Extra Nozzles

Brass Plated MK8 Nozzles

A2 Hardened tool steel MK8 nozzles

M2 Hardened High Speed Steel Nozzle MK8 nozzles

    Customer Reviews

    Based on 136 reviews
    Ole S.
    Good hardware, needs a fan cover solution for the CR-10s Pro (v2)

    Straightforward to assemble if you are a bit handy and followed the guides, but really needs a solution for the 10s pro v2 fan shroud. Luckily as one of the other reviewers here posted a solution it got sorted, but I have to deduct one point for the lack of options here.

    I went for https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5117607/comments, and it worked well for my CR-10s Pro V2

    Great upgrade but needs time to understand and tune

    I've only been 3D printing for a few weeks - but solid at 12+ hours per day so have learnt a lot. I'm highly technical so new concepts and understanding of mechanical processes in 3D printing come fairly quickly to me. I have an Ender 3 v2 with CR Touch that I've modified with quiet fans all-round, new feet, dry box, Briss Fang v4.4 MS, klipper and octoprint with a Pi Zero 2 W running it and a 4" hyperpixel screen running octoscreen - fantastic kit! I've spent days in klipper tuning pressure advance, input shaping and getting G Code macros etc sorted. I can now get very fast near flawless prints and regularly print at 80 or occasionally 100 mm/s with great results.

    The MS DD for Ender 3 v2 has been a good upgrade and has significantly helped with getting great prints. However, it does take some time to get used to. As someone else here mentioned, loading at first is difficult. You really need a handle to help manual filament insertion. It also helps to make sure the PTFE tubing is absolutely straight and aligned with the V notch in the correct orientation so the gears don't touch and put it out of alignment. It's a crazy bit of design though and really needs a machined part I think. I also flared the opening with an allen key so there's less catching on loading.

    Tension seems about right as they suggest with the screw end flush with the knob, maybe a little bit more. That's for PLA though, not tried flexibles or other materials through it.

    The all metal hotend wasn't new to me as the Ender 3 v2 has one as standard now and looks pretty much the same. I could have ordered just the DD without hotend. The only difference is that the MS cooling fins are fatter and less of them than the Creality part - not sure which is better. My gut is that the Creality might be better as there is more surface area for cooling but haven't tested that and would be difficult to without testing temperatures etc. The Creality also seems to have a better design in that the block attaches to the heatsink with two long screws so that the two don't move when changing the nozzle which can happen with the MS hotend. BUT maybe that also transfers more heat into the heatsink as it has two extra thermal paths.

    Getting the right settings in Cura or your slicer of choice is absolutely vital - I've been using retraction of 0.5mm and 35mm/s which seems to work - I've seen very little if any stringing on the parts I've printed so far :) I accidentally printed a small part with my old profile with a higher retraction which resulted in horrendous clicking, grinding and lack of extrusion! Setting it back reulted in buttery smooth and quiet operation.

    So I would certainly recommend but be prepared for some time to understand and fine-tune.

    T. Nylander
    Fits CR10S PRO!!

    With some mods and it fits very well. No problems with belts or other stuffs. Recommend 5% lower on flow settings and around 2.0 mm on retcation. Thanks!

    Jon Lyles
    Requires Longer Belt

    When they don't give you the necessary parts to even install it then what is the point? This requires a longer belt to actually work. Measuring the belt slots on my stock ender 3 Gantry plate, they are wider by about 4mm. So the microswiss direct drive Gantry plate requires a belt that is about 4mm longer. The belt doesn't even reach unless I leave the tensioner off. And I clearly can't do that.

    Mike Berger
    Revised Review - Great Upgrade for CR-10S

    My original review reflected my problem loading filament -- but I discovered that the blue v-cut tube that was included was crimped and running an awl through it fixed the problem. Now loading filament is easy - just be sure to print a control knob for your extruder to run the filament in.
    I have a good familiarity with the CR-10S so I found the installation pretty easy. If you follow instructions carefully you shouldn't have a problem. I reused the BL-Touch bracket I printed for the original Creality hotend and had to update the offset from the nozzle.

    Once I completed PID tuning, calibrated the E steps, set the retraction, and adjusted the Z offset, I was off and running. The prints have been flawless. The most difficult part was getting the X axis drive belt back on since it's under tension (even with the tensioner loosened). And be sure to adjust the eccentric bushing so the X axis doesn't have play, but isn't too tight. I also had to go back and reinsert the thermistor, which wasn't seated all the way in, and resulted in temperature warnings. A millimeter made a big difference!

    Some people have complained about stringing with PLA and the all-metal hotend. I'm running the filament through an oiler, which I'll probably remove after a few more hours of printing, and I haven't had any stringing at all. I expect this hotend will require less maintenance than the stock one, which occasionally clogged if the bowden tube wasn't cut and installed perfectly, and the unified extruder/hotend makes it possible to print flexible filament.

    Customer Reviews

    Based on 123 reviews Write a review

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