Dont expect the fan shroud to hold up when printing ABS. It sags past the printhead and will bottom out on the bed, taking the print with it. Its only good for PLA/PETG which makes it useless for me. Spending as much money as i spent on the extruder on getting the shroud printed in a material that will withstand a bed temperature over 90 degrees is a let down.
The literature from MS makes no note of this and should be updated to reflect the fan shroud's short comings.

This extruder, plus an upgrade to Klipper, on my CR-10 V2 has worked magic. This is my first 3d printer and it's about 2 years old now. It never printed great, but it seemed to be getting worse. The stock Bowden extruder had started to slip some when pushing the filament and was under-extruding. After installing the NG extruder and Klipper, I'm getting a much better print quality at much higher speeds.

I was worried about the direct drive adding extra weight on the gantry requiring slower accelerations, but the Y axis that slings the bed is definitely still the limiting factor. I'm now printing at 100mm/s with an acceleration of 1500mm/s^2, and quality is really nice. With my stock extruder, I was printing at a maximum of 75mm/s with 300mm/s^2 acceleration, and the quality was barely acceptable. While I'm sure that Klipper's pressure advance and input shaping has helped here, I suspect that most of the benefit has come from the extruder.

When I purchased the extruder, I didn't realize there was a different version for the CR-10 V2/V3. This one fits the V2, but you'll need a longer GT2 belt for the X axis and a smaller 4010 parts cooling fan to fit the shroud (my first print was to print a new shroud that accepts the larger 5015 parts cooling fan, printed in ASA). I may actually recommend going this way, because it looks like the one specific to the V2/V3 just bolts onto the existing gantry carriage, whereas this one completely replaces the carriage, so this is probably lighter.

My biggest complaint with the NG extruder is the mounting locations for the bltouch/crtouch are very crowded with the shroud, so I can't use the stock metal bracket, and it's difficult to find or design a bltouch mount that's stiff enough. I eventually found one, and it's been working well.

This is my 2nd purchase of the NG Direct Drive Extruder. The first one I put on my Ender 6 and I was greatly impressed by how it transformed that machine from a cantankerous 500 dollar paper weight to a 100% reliable workhorse. And since my Ender 3 V2 is already showing it's age, failing here and there and "screaming" for an upgrade, I decided to "reward it" by giving it a DD extruder that I know and have tested to work very well.. So just like on my Ender 6 before it, this one also worked excellent for my Ender 3 right out of the box. I just added an "accessory" to allow a more convenient way to securely tie down the wire loom. Compared to the other aftermarket extruders out there, I like this the best as all the critical parts are machined metal (the others use a lot of plastic), and installation is very safe and straightforward (unlike the others that require you to print your own mounting plate etc.). I will most likely get a 3rd one for my next upcoming printer. Again, very well done Micro Swiss.

I've installed three NG's on my custom CoreXY printer and they work really well although I think there are some things that could be done to improve the fan shroud as the wiring ends up being quite messy (especially in my case where I am using EBB42 toolheads with the extruders as you can see in the attached picture).

One recommendation I would make for anybody using the NGs is to add one or two NeoPixel LEDs to the inside of the shrouds as it makes viewing your printing progress much easier.

See title.